California Coast Vol. II + Redwoods + Oregon

So, obviously this blog is not in real time, and recently our travels haven’t really afforded me the opportunity to recollect and write. Or, more accurately, when my options are to sit on a bluff over the Pacific Ocean in hopes of spotting a whale or to sit tied to a power cord in the car, it is really hard for me to choose the latter. I find it much easier to write while driving through the plains of Nebraska where the most interesting thing we’ve seen in 500 miles is a Cabela’s. Jared’s inside drooling over camping gear and crossbows I’m sure, and I don’t expect to see him for another hour or so. In short, please forgive the incongruity with regards to the passing of time and the posting of blog.

And a bluff over the Pacific Ocean is exactly where we found ourselves camping for the night. We tumbled through some sleepy, redwood towns and, once back on the PCH, drove along some spectacular coast.

The campsite we happened upon was lovlier than any resort we could have afforded. There is nothing more luxurious than toasting marshmallows as the moon highlights cliffs upon which giant waves are crashing. In the morning, explored the rocks as others arrived to fish and hunt for abalone.

The California coast is ridiculously long, and each stop is more stunning than the next. Miles upon miles of swell-battered cliffs and endless ocean. Livestock grazing upon the greenest of rolling hills. Near, if not in McKerricher State Park we watched seals play in the water and about the rocks.

Our introduction to some real red-wood country started with the clichéd drive through a tree which despite the cheesy feel, is every bit a fun and novel experience.

We spent the night in the somewhat spooky Garberville, a dank town shadowed by these giant trees. This town sits at the southern entrance to the Avenue of the Giants. This thirty-mile drive takes you along the Eel River and through numerous red wood groves. Despite the rain, we were able to walk through the forests protected by the canopy hundreds of feet above us. We climbed across fallen trees the size of football fields. Often still-living trees would have the base of their trunks hollowed out by fire; we could climb into these small rooms and peak from holes in the remaining bark.

These beautiful and long-living giants made me question exactly which of the two of us was higher on the evolutionary ladder. But then maybe I had been in Northern California too long.

The coast of Oregon is perhaps more dramatic than that of its neighbor to the south. We were forced to move through quickly as we needed to make up time after our leisurely California drive stopping only to scale some rocks and peak into tide pools.

We turned east after visiting the Sea Lion Caves in Florence, OR. They were cute, loud and smelly.

Turning from the coast once again, and at the recommendation of my friend Kristin, we visited Oregon’s largest state park, Silver Falls and the Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm during their 25th Annual Tulipfest. At Silver Falls, one long trails leads around the canyon with remarkable falls at nearly every curve. And before heading back to civilization, we lounged among the infinite rows of tulips.

From Mountains to (wine) Valleys

Most of Yosemite is still closed this time of year, but there was still enough to see to easily fill up a day. We started with a hike through what was, at times, knee-deep snow to a grove of giant sequoias. These mammoth trees did not disappoint, and we spent a couple of hours marveling at their size as well as getting a little dirty climbing about them.

As we travelled the winding and picturesque roads toward Yosemite Valley, we stopped so that Jared could get a closer look at some raging falls along the side of the street.

The remainder of the day we hiked and drove through the valley checking out some of the main attractions: Bridal Falls and the monoliths El Capitan and Half Dome.

The high point (pun absolutely intended) of our travels through Yosemite Valley was the trek to the base of Yosemite Falls, allegedly the second-highest waterfall in the world at 2400’. The imposing yet majestic cascade of water was nearly more than waterfall-smitten Jared could handle, and he started a trend as he climbed along the rocks to get a closer view.

Even with the majority of Yosemite closed to us, the grandness of the rising peaks and forest-hidden falls within the valley made for a spectacular day in the park.

After the sun had set, we journeyed back west, stopping in Fairfield, CA for the night. Unbeknownst to us, but easily apparent in the daytime, Fairfield, CA is home to the famous Jelly Belly candy. Not really seeing how we could pass this by, we toured the factory learning all about this bean-shaped confection. Most interesting to us was that Ronald Reagan’s addiction to the Jelly Belly (his favorite flavor was licorice) is what helped to make them world-famous.

As it was Sunday and we happened to be in Napa Valley, a few wine-tastings seemed in order.

Per a local’s recommendation, we travelled the Silverado Trail past an untold number or vineyards. The most grandiose winery we passed was Darioush which reminded us of a Persian palace with its stately columns, lush gardens, fountains and reflecting pools.

The inside of Darioush is as lavish as the out, but it was a little high-falutin for two people who spent the night in a Target parking lot. We opted to continue down the vine-bordered trail stopping in at the Miner Family Vineyards. We chatted with a few other visitors as we tasted a variety of reds and whites; our favorite was their Viognier. Down the road a bit further, we ended our day at the hip Honig Vineyards where we continued to study these delicious libations as we sat on their terrace overlooking row after row of grapevines.

The Cities By The Bay

Our first day in San Francisco was full of science and nature. The Conservatory of Flowers situated inside the Golden Gate Park includes four permanent exhibits showcasing plants and flowering plants from tropical and subtropical regions. It was, in parts, a bit like walking around a Bradenton, FL neighborhood.

We walked over to the Academy of Sciences. A five story rainforest is the leading attraction at this museum of sorts.

Without intending to, we spent the entire day contemplating the variety of animals and our own carbon emissions.

The top of the building is a 17,000 square foot greenroof on which small plants and flowers are grown.

Jared and I split up for the evening. I was treated to a fabulous dinner at E & O Trading Company while Jared caught a Giants game. Distance and my own laziness caused me to fall out of touch with my dear friend Jen, and I was glad to spend an evening catching up while walking the rising streets of her Nob Hill neighborhood. Jared found free parking 100 yards from AT&T Park and picked up a great ticket for $15.00. It was a phenomenal stadium with views of the bay from every seat in the park.

The next morning we walked up and down Haight-Ashbury as any first time visitor to San Francisco is required to do. Jared busied himself trying to snap pictures of "hippies" as we ducked into the colorful shops that lined the street. This bright neighborhood has had a number of famous residents, and we drove about locating their former homes.

We stopped in Chinatown for lunch, afterwards spending the afternoon upon the piers that jut out into San Francisco Bay at Fishermen’s Wharf. Although certainly touristy, we enjoyed gazing at the lines of fishing boats, playing in a museum that showcased arcade games from the last several decades and stepping into a few of the art galleries that dotted the other side of the street.

We weren’t relegated to the back corner of the area’s least sketchy Wal-Mart while in San Francisco as my friend Sara (who was in China and Vietnam for work during our visit) quite generously offered to have us at her house in Alameda, just west of the city. While I would have preferred to see Sara and her super-cute apartment, staying at her place while in San Francisco was easily one of the best treats of the trip. I wish I would have thought to get a picture of the outside of her apartment, which is nestled onto a sunny street and surrounded by flowering, rose-like bushes. I did, however, get pictures of the inside and publish these with her express permission. They make it easy to see why we spent nearly a week in San Francisco.

We were enamored with Alameda immediately upon leaving the interstate for the city’s diverse and quaint downtown. Sara also had provided us with a few outings that piqued our interest, so we decided to dedicate a day to Alameda. We ate the best sushi of our lives in a bay-side restaurant that afforded expansive views of the San Francisco skyline, but the highlight was the spirits tasting at Saint George’s Spirits. This distillery, most famous for their Hangar 1 Vodkas, is located on an old air force base directly on the bay. They serve up a variety of infused vodkas, a whiskey and several specialty liqueurs. My favorite was the citrusy Buddha’s Hand Vodka; Jared liked the whiskey, and I managed to procure a bottle without his noticing for his upcoming birthday.

Our last day in San Francisco was a catch-all: one last look at Alcatraz, we had forgotten to visit the sea lions on Pier 39, walking down the famously curvy Lombard Street was a priority and we needed to stop at the Golden Gate Bridge before we crossed it on our way out of town.